A Yarn to Spin!
Fresh out of the galley, ready to spin a yarn about hitting Kaohsiung back in the 90s. I was Chief Cook on the Liberty Sun then, a US-flagged tub that was eventually gonna drag us around the world, but first up was Taiwan. Man, what a place.
Pulling into Kaohsiung from the sea, the first thing that hits you isn’t the salty air, it’s this hazy cloud hanging over the place. Yeah, pollution. A real sign that this was a serious industrial powerhouse. As we got closer, you could see the breakwater, and then this lighthouse – seemed to be blinking extra urgently, probably screaming, “Narrow lanes ahead, you mugs! And it’s packed in here!” And then, looming on the shore like something out of a post-apocalyptic movie, were these mountains of scrap iron. Literally piles as high as decent-sized hills. Taiwan in the 90s was apparently the world’s scrapyard, and Kaohsiung was the main bin. A bit of a shock to the system, I’ll admit.
The port itself was exactly what you’d expect from a major working harbor – loud, busy, cranes swinging, ships coming and going, controlled chaos everywhere. Not exactly a postcard view, but fascinating if you’re into that sort of thing (which, after months at sea, you kinda are). But getting off the ship, that’s where the real Kaohsiung hit you. Stepping out of the port gates was like diving into a different dimension. The streets were just… a river of mopeds. Thousands of them, buzzing in every direction, horns beeping like mad. Forget traffic rules; it was more like traffic suggestions. Pure, beautiful madness.
This is where the ‘exploration and mischief’ part really kicked in. I somehow linked up with this young local girl who became my unofficial “land pilot.” Her ride? A moped, of course. Now, seeing one guy and one girl on a moped felt almost quaint compared to everyone else. You’d see whole families piled on – mom, dad, two kids, maybe the dog, plus enough shopping bags stacked up to block the driver’s view entirely. We, comparatively, were traveling light. My chariot awaited!
So, perched precariously on the back of this moped, we were off. My mission as Chief Cook on shore leave? Sample all the local cuisine, obviously. And see whatever else we could cram in. We hit temples – beautiful, colorful places tucked away amidst the city bustle. Explored parks, saw some natural spots she knew about. She was showing me the real Kaohsiung, not just the tourist traps (though those were probably few and far between anyway back then).
And the food! Oh man. Kaohsiung in the 90s was a foodie’s absolute dream, especially for a cook. Fresh seafood everywhere, just pulled from the ocean. We’re talking incredible grilled fish, oyster omelets that were somehow crispy and gooey, seafood porridge that tasted like the sea itself. And all the Taiwanese classics: rich, comforting Beef Noodle Soup that warmed your soul; Lu Rou Fan, that magical braised pork over rice that I still dream about; Dan Zai noodles, simple but perfect. And Bubble Tea was just hitting its stride, sweet and chewy. The night markets were a whole other level – sensory overload in the best way. The smell of Stinky Tofu hits you from a block away… look, I tried it. It’s an experience. Let’s leave it at that. But the Taiwanese Popcorn Chicken? Addictive. We ate our way across that city, one moped ride at a time.
The people were just incredibly warm and friendly, too. Despite the language barrier (my Mandarin was non-existent, her English was limited, but smiles and pointing worked wonders), they were genuinely curious and welcoming to a scruffy seaman. It made a huge difference. You saw the blend of the old and new all over – traditional temples next to slightly dated, blocky 90s buildings.
One of the coolest, slightly mischievous things we did was check out this “movie complex.” I was expecting a regular cinema, but she took me to this tall building. We got out on the sixth floor, and it was a restaurant and bar! But off to the side were these private rooms. You’d go in, it was just pillows on the floor and a big screen. You’d pick a movie from a list, order food and drinks right there, and they’d bring it in. Private movie party! Not exactly what I pictured, but way cooler and definitely felt a bit sneaky and awesome. It was such a different, relaxed vibe compared to a standard cinema back home. Just another unexpected slice of Kaohsiung life.
We checked out little shops too – Kaohsiung had tons of them, mostly small, family-run places crammed with stuff. You could find anything from hand-carved furniture to mountains of scrap, to brass fittings for ships (always interesting for a ship’s cook to see where our gear might come from), and of course, endless food stalls.
Leaving Kaohsiung after that stop, even though it was probably only a few days (the 90s speed-up, remember?), felt like saying goodbye to a secret world. It wasn’t a polished tourist destination, but it was vibrant, authentic, delicious, and full of genuinely kind people. It was a tough, industrial port city, yeah, but it offered a young seaman a real taste of Taiwan, guided by a tiny moped pilot, filled with amazing food, a little bit of culture, and just enough unexpected weirdness and mild mischief to make it an unforgettable part of that round-the-world trip. Definitely not just another port call.
Keep the Faith!
/.BH
